braysabroad

This morning, our ride back to the airport was through Olive groves, many with a significant number of dead or dying trees caused by the Xylella bacteria which arrived on the island in 2017. It’s interesting that we didn’t notice the impact last year, so it feels that it’s spreading at quite an alarming rate despite control measures in place.

Now on to our final ramblings in no particular order:

Hotel El Guia was a great central location, and surprisingly quiet considering it is sandwiched between the Tram terminus and railway station. We upgraded our room for a bit more space which was welcome for a week’s stay.

Best meal? Kim loved the Mushoom menu on the first night. John? His favourite is always the freshness and simple pasta choices at C’an Llimona although, this year, a Margarita pizza at C’an Sollerenc came a close second

What was our highlight? John’s was not falling off or crashing the scooter. Kim’s was have a paddle in the Med. Not sure what this says about us as a couple!

What would we do the next time? Hire a Harley rather than a Lambretta, at least John would. Kim’s is a bit more low key and would be to visit the Robert Graves museum in Deia and walk back to Soller. Robert Graves has haunted her since English Lit ‘O’ Level and it’s time to put his ghost to bed.

For our final day, we chose to walk down to Port de Soller and cobbled together our own circular route.

Before we tell you about our day, yesterday we re-visited a Picasso ceramic exhibition in Soller station. On our way out this morning, we spotted these and decided they were probably better than some of Picasso’s ceramic art.

It’s been a glorious day, 24 degrees and the port was looking lovely in the sunshine. There was time for a quick paddle before stopping at a beach front cafe, Blai. Chosen for its choice of music, 70s chill probably best describes it, rather than the menu. We did enjoy a leisurely lunch of blue cheese, grapes and poached pears overlooking the bay.

Each time we’ve visited the port, there hasn’t felt much to do but warm sunshine gave it whole different feel. So much so, we researched how much a sea view apartment would cost this time next year.

Since we last visited, the Musee de Mar has reopened in the former Oratory of Santa Catarina. This little museum has a spectacular view over the cliffs and traces the port’s seafaring heritage and important role it had in trade across both the Mediterranean and Atlantic. Ship building was vital for export of oranges.

We chose to walk back to Soller, despite perfectly good tram and bus services. It’s the lowest graded walk of our holiday – only 1.5 hours and 5km. It was tough, we are both tired and it was hot. Neither of us were in the mood for rocky paths and grumbled most of the way back! We did enjoy the last part, returning into Soller along paths we hadn’t seen before and with a clear view of l’Ofre peak which we’d walked under from Cuber reservoir. It’s the middle, triangular one in the photo and it’s a long way up!

Tonight, as John’s birthday treat, we ate in C’an Llimona. We’ve eaten here, each time we gave stayed in Soller and it’s a favourite. The pasta is freshly made, the decor eclectic. There is a menu but you choose from the tray presented to you. As to the tea choices….

John had a hankering for hiring a scooter to explore more of Mallorca. He was keen to take the old mountain route from Soller towards Palma until persuaded, by Luca at Viento Scooter Hire, to try something more scenic – much to Kim’s relief.

An orange Lambretta took us 36 km out of Soller, along twisting mountain roads, to Lluc, the spiritual heart of Mallorca. Famous for the Santuari de Lluc, a former monastery and pilgrimage site dating back to the 13th century, it had the added allure of both botanical gardens and a cafe.

There was a hiking route, all of 30 minutes, around the back of the Santuari and past sculptures dedicated to the Mysteries of the Rosary and fantastic views across the valley. Legend has it that the site was deemed spiritual when a shepherd found a statue of the Virgin Mary in the field.

Each lunchtime, there is a short recital by the Children’s choir in the chapel. The Choir was formed in the 16th Century and is the oldest surviving Children’s Choir – some of them look remarkably good for their age! The chapel is also home to a black Madonna, who appears behind the altar for the recital and magically disappears behind a screen when the singing ceases.

We stopped for a couple of photo opportunities on the way back down the Tramuntana mountains.

Although the roads have been steep and twisting, they have been quiet, apart from the odd kamikaze sheep. Perfect for two wobbly oldies on a trendy Lambretta.

To recover, we spent a couple of hours by the pool with a quick visit to the Miro exhibition at the station followed by dinner overlooking the main square.

As in we both fell over, a few bruises and grazes were all we suffered. No-one would believe we’ve been away if we came back unscathed.

Today, we walked from Cuber reservoir, one of only two on Mallorca built to supply water to Palma, back to Soller. We arrived by taxi and our only option was to walk the whole route. There would be no short cuts or buses today.

This walk is all about the descent through the Biniaraix gorge, down almost 2000 stone steps cut through the mountains by the Carthaginians about 2500 years ago. A path created to expand olive oil trading, there was a lot of grumbling about ‘bloody carthaginians’.

The first few km’s took us along the reservoir shore through a nature reserve where we shared our path with horses and donkeys. In the background, there was a constant sound of bells so we knew there were sheep around, but could we see them? There are at least two in the photo below, can you find them?

The highest point of our walk was under the distinctive, triangular peak of l’Ofre. Luckily we didn’t have to walk to the summit but the following 800m descent over 5km was tortuous.

As we descended, our views across to Port de Soller were amazing but the zig zag, cobbled path along the Barranc de Biniaraix through the gorge was extremely tough going. Although well maintained, 2000 uneven boulder steps on a path dug out of the side of a mountain was hair raising. In places it was slippery and, over two hours of descending, took its toll on knees and ankles. Would we do it again? Probably, just not this holiday. And we were grateful not to have walked it in reverse.

Reaching Biniaraix, only 45 minutes later than the suggested guideline in our route instructions, we felt rather smug while collapsed in a heap with a beer to fortify us for the final descent into Soller. 30 minutes on a nice tarmac road!

15kms walking had taken us over 5 hours.

We have a different kind of adventure planned for tomorrow. No walking poles required!

Today started with a plan – bus to Deia, visit Robert Graves museum followed by a walk back to Soller.

It all fell apart when Google Maps didn’t bother telling us we were waiting at the wrong bus stop. Please don’t mention personal accountability, we’re simply not interested. With over an hour wait until the next bus, we didn’t have time for our Plan A and so Plan B was born – Valldemossa!

We researched our options while sitting in a cafe, next to what we hoped was the correct bus stop, while drinking the worst tea and coffee we’ve tasted all year. By 10:45am, we were surrounded by workers drinking beer and wine and could completely understand their choice of beverage.

Valldemossa is a pretty, ancient village on the north coast, famous for its Carthusian Monastery where Chopin and George Sand once spent a winter renting a former monk’s cell. The main draw, for us, was an exhibition of Miro posters.

Throughout the day, 15 minute Chopin piano recitals take place in the monastery which was a rather nice interlude before a late lunch and bus back to Soller.

Our bus journey was an adventure in a category all of its own. Equally exciting and hair raising. Bus drivers must have to pass a special test to prove they can get their vehicle around hairpin bends, on narrow roads, without toppling over the side of a sheer drop.

The clouds lifted, this morning, and the sun put in an appearance. We decided to brave a walk up into the quiet hills to the west of Soller.

Our route took us through the main square, where unexpectedly there was live music and a craft market.

Instructions made it sound simple despite warning us of a long ascent out of town. It was definitely well described, rocky and slippery in places but with fantastic views over Soller and across to the Mediterranean sea. At one point, we crossed the narrow gauge railway line which travels through the Tramuntana mountains between Palma and Soller. It’s such a quaint train that we debated whether or not to wait for it to pass. We decided to carry on, we hadn’t been walking for long it could be up to an hour until the train passed. As we carried on our ascent and turned away from the track, we heard the tell tale whistle and the train trundled past below – a missed photo opportunity!

We walked through Olive and Citrus groves, under carob trees and along some very rocky paths. At one point, John was hit by something spiky and lost his balance. Luckily his only injury is a splinter. Annoyingly, he’d taken a wrong turning and shouldn’t have been anywhere near said spiky tree.

There’s been a lot of cautious descending and we’re pleased to report that the splinter was our only injury. And, as to slips, trips and falls, you would usually expect Kim to be the one not paying attention.

11.5km walked with an ascent of 400m and descent of 381m, we rewarded ourselves with a beer in Soller’s main square.

….because we found a new boat for the river.

It was heavy rain today and common sense told us not to do a long walk on wet, slippery surfaces. Instead we chose a bus trip to Pollenca. It’s a fairly straightforward journey but, via Palma, it’s lengthy – two hours each way.

It was a good choice, we spent the heaviest downpours on a bus. The rain held off long enough for us to wander around the Port de Pollenca marina where Kim stunned John with her knowledge of the Mallorcan Ilaut before deciding which boat we would most like to take home. Can you guess who chose which?

Next stop, Pollenca, where the town was setting up for a festival. There are many Mallorcan Autumn festivals in November, celebrating olives, pumpkins and rice as well as the Dijou Bo that we visited in Inca, last year.

We wandered up to the old town and walked up 412 steps to the Calvary Chapel with its amazing views. According to Google, there are 365 steps, Google is a big fibber.

We made it back to the bus stop, just as the heavens opened again and were grateful Palma bus station is underground for our final connection to the Soller bus

We’ve dodged the worst of the rain and, fingers crossed, the rest of the week is looking better.

Who would do such a thing? Kim was desperate to have something in the calendar, with little planning and some late Autumn sunshine. Before we knew it, we were booked for a trip back to Soller on Majorca.

Matt dropped us at Luton Airport at 5:30 and we were in sunny Soller by 11. It’s a shame, for us, that the weather at home is unseasonably mild. There isn’t quite the temperature difference we hoped for.

We are staying in a different hotel to usual, there is a small pool and lovely views over the mountains but no private balcony.

Out first walk was up to Biniaraix for a beer and light lunch

It’s mushroom season and, tonight, we chose the ‘Mushroom’ menu in our hotel. It was delicious – John declined calamari stuffed with mushrooms instead opting for a simple omelette!

We have plans for walking, using the bus to get around the island and, worryingly, John is talking of hiring a scooter…

Last night we ate in the hotel’s restaurant. There are no photos of our stylish food because we were too busy being friendly.

On our left a couple from Vlissinghem, he was Dutch, she was Scottish and they met in Egypt over 45 years ago. We had a lively conversation about their recent holiday in Great Yarmouth. They won’t be going back.

To our right, two ladies from Philadelphia. They are visiting the Park tomorrow and, on our recommendation, the Escher Museum in The Hague on Saturday. An excess of red wine may be responsible for all this sociability!

John’s main course was roasted watermelon. Anyone else tried that? It was quite a different taste with a similar texture to salmon.

Yesterday, we forgot to mention that Park information leaflets include a warning of wolves. We were urged not to leave paths, vacate the park before dusk and, most helpfully, a number to ring if a wolf was within 50m and threatening.

Our journey to the port allowed us time for more Dutch culture. Can you guess where we went?

So familiar yet so different! How interesting that you can arrive by bike and borrow this to take your purchases home.

We arrived at Hoek van Holland in plenty of time and John struck up conversation with a Dutch motorcyclist who was going to a rally near London. Can you spot what is unusual about his motorcycle?

In case you’ve forgotten how much we like Holland, please bear with us while we remind you. Fantastic cycle ways, lovely people, beautiful scenery and very clean.

Thanks to Jacky for suggesting Turckheim would be a more pleasant stay than Colmar, she was spot on.

Our trip highlights? It feels a long time ago but, for both of us, the Schlumpf collection was well worth an overnight sailing and 10 hour drive. Cycling has been a pleasure and the Kroller-Muller collection and Park exceeded expectations.

…… the Hoge Veluwe National Park which is 8,998,209 less than Katie Melua thought were in Beijing. In Holland, they are all the same colour and free to use. What no-one tells you is that they’re fixed wheel with no brakes and stopping takes a bit of thinking about.

The National Park is a cultural estate founded by Anton and Helene Kroller-Muller, at the beginning of the 20th Century. Anton’s hobby was buying up hunting grounds and Helene was an avid art collector. Helene’s dream was a museum to share her passion, finally achieved in 1938. Luckily the Canadians stored some tanks at the museum in 1945, which proved rather useful at the Battle of Otterlo the last battle to take place in the Netherlands.

We didn’t manage to explore all of the park exhibits but started with the Kroller-Muller museum and Sculpture Park. This houses Helene’s art collection which includes the second largest selection of Van Gogh paintings in the world. Throw in a few Picassos, Toulouse-Lautrecs and Mondriaans and there’s quite an eclectic collection. The sculpture gardens cover 25 hectares with over 160 sculptures. Both art and sculptures had been added to over the years, helping to keep the museum fresh and current.

Here’s a selection of photos

After lunch, we managed to cycle 10km on our single speed, fixed wheel upright Dutch bicycles around the park to visit the Kroller-Muller’s country residence, Museum Jachthuis Sint Hubert. Built between 1914 and 1920 the brief was to make it artistic. We were too late for a guided tour so sat in the warm autumn sunshine admiring it’s elegance and views across the lake.

A leisurely cycle back through the woodland and heath, past the Memorial to General de Wet, gave us time to refresh before dinner

At this point we have to admit, last night, we were a little harsh about our accommodation. We didn’t freeze over night because we worked out how to put the heating on, there are common rooms where we can socialise with other inmates and breakfast exceeded expectations. Our room is still tiny but we didn’t bring a cat to swing so that’s ok.

Yesterday afternoon, and despite being over dressed for the weather, we walked to the Cave de Turckheim, on the outskirts of town, for a wine tasting. Never a good idea on an empty stomach but we managed and even remembered to pick up our wine this morning. Usefully, each wine had an information card detailing, amongst other measurements, its precise sugar content, surprisingly we both preferred a dry (0.9g/l) Muscat which we associate with sweet wine to a classic Riesling. You live and learn, hic.

Our day ended with a late night walk into town to follow the Night Watchman on his round at 10pm. An ancient role, originally intended to remind residents to ‘take care of the fireplace and candle’ before bed. Today, the round is recreated by the Turckheim Historical Society and, each night between May and October, the NightWatchman can be seen on the streets, singing at each junction and wishing everyone a good night.

There were 12 of us following the watchman last night. On each corner we were encouraged to join the Watchman in his singing followed by local stories. It was such a shame our French and German are simply not good enough to keep up. We had seen the silhouette symbol of the Watchman in many places around town and finally it all made sense.

Today we had 650km drive from Turckheim to Otterlo in the Netherlands. There was some frantic last minute googling to buy a Crit’air badge to allow the car through Strasbourg. £4.50 well spent although, after paying to post it to us, quite how the French Government make a profit is a mystery.

Our route took us past ‘Liberty Enlightening the World’. Colmar was home to Frederic Bartholdi designer of the famous statue that graces New York harbour.

We arrived in Otterlo at 6pm, tired and hungry. We are staying in a sort of youth hostel with no visible staff. Following check in instructions was our first significant challenge – the correct code entered in the correct key locker. We didn’t expect it to be such a challenge.

Otterlo is surrounded by forest and, tomorrow’s plan is to cycle the Kroller-Miller park, visiting the museum. Fingers crossed the Dutch weather stays fine.

Today’s plan was to cycle a loop out to Colmar and back via Eguisheim. We woke to cold drizzle with a vague promise of sunshine later.

Hardy beings that we are, we chose to stick to the plan. Kim has wanted to visit Colmar since our JustGo camper van days when Facebook photos showed such a beautiful town. Our route there was flat, through country lanes and dedicated cycle paths. Perfect cycling, in better weather.

Colmar was busy, we dodged walking tour after walking tour before deciding to follow the tourist train around town. A smart move that provided sights we would not otherwise have found. Colmar is stunning and busy, although the medieval buildings are beautifully painted, they are missing the window boxes full of geraniums found in other towns. The Bartholdi museum was shut and there was obvious sign of any Statue of Liberty so, in less than an hour, we’d ticked Colmar off the list and won’t rush back. Fun fact, Colmar is famous for its Petite Venise a popular tourist spot…. and that France, alone, has at least 50 Petit Venice’s which in reality is just a town with a canal running through the middle.

Our Komoot app let us down on the way to Eguisheim, we’d strayed so far from the route that we were halfway back to Turckheim before we realised the error. Google came to our rescue, if you call muddy tracks through sweetcorn fields a suitable route for Bromptons. This was our only sighting of a stork and it was too quick to be captured in the photo.

Eguisheim is yet another pretty Alsace town, complete with cobbled streets which are hard work on a bike with its small 16” wheels. The sun came out and we stopped for lunch. Our route took us past vineyards and through Wettolshein and Wintzenheim.

We haven’t done much walking this holiday so, this afternoon, we walked the Dragon Trail around the vineyard slopes overlooking Turckheim. The views across the valley were splendid and, if our French was better, we would have learned why the soil makes the Alsace wine so special.

A special mention for the Bromptons, attention seeking little bikes that they are. We were stopped by a German lady in Eguisheim who was rather taken with the neat design and very impressed with how easy they are to fold. Back at the hotel carpark, a van stopped suddenly. The driver needs a small bike for his small British Car. It turned out he keeps a Caterham in a nearby garage, it’s the same shade of green as John’s bike. The Caterham is going racing in the uk soon and a Brompton is just what’s needed to make his trip complete.

This morning our previously quiet hotel appears to have been taken over by a group of argumentative and noisy Australian women on a hiking expedition. We escaped by following the Alsace wine trail out to Kayersberg, a picturesque village known for its half-timbered houses, colourful buildings and decorated balconies. Red geraniums are tied closely to Alsace heritage and there aren’t many balconies and window boxes that aren’t decorated with them.

We were treated to the Kamaleon Big Band playing jazz standards in the main square, as we wandered around taking in an art exhibition and some wine tasting before heading back to Turckheim for their ‘new wine festival’. Kayersberg was very busy and, as we left, another full coach arrived and we were pleased to leave.

On the drive back, John’s quest for the perfect photo involved an off road experience through the vineyards for Matt’s Golf, kindly lent us for our trip. He won’t ever know because he doesn’t read our blog….

A lovely afternoon was spent, sitting in the sunshine, in Turckheim’s main square, drinking wine while listening to live music. There was something supremely cheery about being entertained by an accordionist and tuba player playing Blues Brothers, Grease and Tom Jones medleys. When they took a break, L’Orchestre d’Harmonie de Turckheim took over with a distinct change of tone and style.

In order to buy food and wine, we had to pay up front and were given a ticket. Each vendor crossed off the value of our purchase and, when we left, our unspent Euros were returned. Such a simple and effective system.

Tonight, the hotel restaurant is closed so it’s leftovers that we found in the car together with a nice bottle of local Pinot Gris. If you look closely, you can see our afternoon’s wine glasses which we chose to keep rather than have our deposit back.

Firstly, what encouraged Kim to cycle 30km, on a Brompton, when there’s a perfectly good car sitting in the car park?

Answer? Cheese!

It’s stopped raining so with the aid of dedicated cycle paths and our Komoot cycle app, we cycled peacefully along the Vosges valley to the Munster Cheese Museum. It’s our first time using Komoot for navigation and we’re impressed, a laid back voice successfully directing us from inside Kim’s pocket.

We were too late to book a full guided tour of the museum but the static information displays together with quite a whiff of cheese about the place was interesting. We now know that the edible part of cheese is known as paste even though it doesn’t come out of a tube.

The Albert Schweitzer museum, in Gonsbach, was closed for lunchtime so we detoured up into Munster for our own refreshments before heading back to a lovely little museum in Schweitzer’s house.

Nobel prize winner philosopher and physician, Schweitzer was a true humanitarian. The overarching principle that guided him was ‘reverence for life‘, a philosophy that took him to Lambarene in Gabon, where he established a hospital healing many and touched the lives of millions worldwide.

After the museum we climbed the Sentier Weg footpath up out of town stopping at signs quoting Schweitzer philosophy which we didn’t understand before cycling back, past fields, through woodland and alongside rivers.

We will leave you with this Schweitzer quote – ‘There are two means of refuge from the miseries of life: music and cats’. Guess who agrees and who is wheezing in a corner .

We’re in France for an adventure postponed from 2024. Walking, cycling and culture await.

Wednesday night was spent on the overnight ferry to Holland, we then drove 9 hours through 4 countries to reach Turckheim on the Alsace Wine Route and it’s been piddling with rain ever since.

Highlight of our long journey was John’s conversation with a German lady in a Belgian Roadside Cafe. They were discussing the practice of charging to use the toilets, we were entertained by the phrase ‘€1 for a pee pee? It’s an expensive pee pee’

Cycling and walking are on hold until the weather cheers up so, today, we drove to Mulhouse to visit Musee National de l’automobile or Schlumpf collection as it should rightly be known. The Schlumpf brothers lost the right to their immense collection of cars, in the 1970s, when they could no longer pay workers in their textile mill. French authorities stepped in, and confiscated the collection for what may have been purely political reasons – the wealthy bourgeoisie trampling on the workers. An alternative story is that the brothers tried to sell their collection to a private buyer to cover their debts and pay their employees but were prevented by French Authorities. Wherever the truth lies, this is an amazing collection of rare and interesting cars.

https://www.musee-automobile.fr/en/discover-the-museum/

Our drive back along the Alsace Wine Route, took us through some lovely villages with great views – we couldn’t see said views through the rain so there’s only one photo.

Finally, we had a wander around Turckheim before heading back to our hotel.

Our time away has come to an end and we’re waiting for our flight. It’s a really hot day so it’s quite pleasant to be in the airport.

No sightseeing this morning, we didn’t have quite enough time but….. we did have time to while away almost 2 hours over breakfast, playing cards on the terrace of the restaurant next door.

Would I come back to Porto? Absolutely, there are still a tram rides to the coast, museums, port tastings and gardens to visit.

Would we go away together again? Absolutely and next year is either Lisbon or Gdansk or somewhere else…. we’re a bit dithery on the decision making!

Yesterday was a much appreciated leisurely start with breakfast at 10 at a restaurant right next door to our apartment.

When we’re away, John loves a market so it seemed appropriate that our first stop was Mercado do Bolhao simply to make him jealous. The market is Porto’s most important food market and the current building dates back to the early 20th Century.

Next stop was the cathedral, dating back to the 12th Century and a mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architecture. The gilding and decoration was fantastic and paid for by the wealthy of Porto, hoping to secure paradise. Wonder how well that worked for them?

Embracing our inner tourists, we took a boat trip along the Douro river, learned about the bridges that cross it and had the best view of the historic Ribiera district.

Our walk back to the apartment was via the church of Sao Francisco, one of the most prominent monuments in Porto, noted for it gothic carves and gilded interior. Sadly, photos weren’t allowed. We’d already caused a stir when Liz used the disabled toilet in the market and felt trying to take a sneaky photo could permanently turn Porto against us. You can use your imagination when I say that 400 – 700 kg of gold dust were used in its decoration.

We were able to take photos in the catacombs under the church, beautifully quiet and peaceful which is always a bonus when dealing with dead bodies in tombs.

Porto is hilly and not just an up and down hill! We walked up and down and up and down and repeat! Our apartment about 20 minutes walk from the river, at the top of the hill, and the walk back to get freshened up for dinner was hard work. We stopped halfway for a much needed cake and coffee stop in a small art deco patisserie, before coming across The Arruada de Ranchos. A procession of folk groups through the streets of Porto during the São João festivities

Hoping to see a Fado concert, had booked a restaurant back down near the river on the recommendation or our Air bnb host. So, less than an hour after climbing up the hill, we were heading back down for dinner. Our walking tour guide talked about the most beautiful McDonalds in the world and she was probably right. With its art deco glass, chandeliers and security guard it was a sight.

Something had been lost in translation. We are in a lovely tapas restaurant with fantastic views across the Douro to a backdrop of ABBA. Not quite what we had in mind and definitely better than planned. Fortified by the food and a glass of port with dessert, we made it back up the hills with not a grumble amongst us.

Kim is on an adventure with her oldest friends – a weekend in Porto to celebrate our ‘big birthday’ year.

Our day started at 04:30 at Luton Airport, rather a shock to all of us but a nice early start in Porto. We were in the city by 10am for an early brunch at the Majestic Cafe, a beautiful art deco cafe serving the best coffee in Porto and a favourite of JK Rowling when writing Harry Potter and the Philosophers Stone.

Our afternoon was spent on a walking tour and, my goodness, Porto is hilly! We walked past the cathedral, visited the Sao Bento Station with its 20000 painted tiles and had a comprehensive lesson in the city’s history. Tomorrow morning, we’ll visit the museum in the Cathedral and the 14th Century baroque Franciscan Church which, allegedly, is lined with 300kg of gold and described as an explosion in a gold factory- I wonder how much we can get out, under our fingernails?

We learned about Porto’s dark history and the Jewish extermination in 15th and 16th century. It was a disturbing listen and our tour guide found it difficult to relate.

Our final tourist destination was the Livraria Lello, the most beautiful bookshop in the world and we would struggle to challenge the description. It was a shame about the crowds but well worth a visit.

Ok, time to come clean….. we didn’t really buy a tractor.

Our last day in Soller was sunny so we started in the Botanic Gardens, filled with many plants from the Balearic Islands, Mediterranean and further afield.

We left Ken and Jacky browsing the gardens and wandered out of town towards Biniaraix. We’d done the walk on our last visit, it wasnt far and we knew there’d be a bar playing very chilled music. Before we knew it, we left the google route behind and were following the GR221 hiking route. Suddenly we were walking far further and Google was sulking.

It was worth the detour through little hamlets with fantastic views back across the valley to the mountains. The bar was just as we remembered with tasty food and interesting signs on the toilet door.

Everyday, we have talked and looked for a carrot tapas similar to one on our last visit. They were the most expensive, and tasty, carrots ever. It was good to finally come across a similar carrot dish on the bar menu.

Refreshed, we returned to Soller and visited Can Prunera which houses the Museo Modernista. Part museum, part art gallery it is housed in an old art nouveau mansion built in the early 20th Century. Restoration of this beautiful home was made possible by a collaboration between the Soller Railway Company and the Serra Art Foundation.

On our way to the airport, our taxi driver spoke about the impact of tourism. Visitors are up 1,000,000 since 2023 and the island is struggling to cope. The made sense of ‘SOS Soller’ signs we’d seen dotted around the town.

Finally, as we wait for our flight, would we come back to Soller? Absolutely, and for at least a week. We’ve mastered public transport and there is much to do in and around this lovely area.

Our day started like locals, John and I caught a bus to Inca for the Dijou Bo festival.

We intended to take the train part of the way but walking from one bus stop to another was far more appealing than finding a train with only 3 words of Spanish.

We’d been advised to get to Inca early, it gets really busy. We arrived at the agricultural section of the festival and couldn’t understand what the fuss had been about it was fairly quiet possibly because it’s not easy to carry a tractor or mini-digger home with you

Then we hit the local produce and craft markets. The only way to move among the crowds was to walk very slowly and savour the atmosphere. Two elderly ladies, in Mallorcan costume, were cooking delicious fresh apple donuts. It was quite an experience and the largest market we have ever seen.

The programme included animal auctions and riding displays on Minorcan horses. A quick search of Google Maps for a green space described as ‘busier than usual’ was all that was needed to find them. Amongst many animals, we discovered Porc Negre Mallorqui and Fat Pigeons – we are not being rude, the pigeon is really named ‘Fat’!

It was a toss up between buying a tractor or Mallorcan black pig. Let’s see what we can get through customs and EasyJet baggage checks….

Meanwhile Ken and Jacky didn’t have the same dilemma, preferring instead to stretch their legs on a long walk from Soller.

Our final night was spent at C’an Llimona, a pasta restaurant with a limited menu made from beautifully fresh ingredients. There are no food pictures because we were too busy playing a 1993 version of Trivial Pursuit.